I have fallen way behind on this blog... once again....
In the next few weeks I will be making multiple updates from the last 2 months.
I have gotten married and graduated from USF with a degree in Environmental Policy so now I will have a little more time.
Until the updates come, check out my vimeo account I just started. http://vimeo.com/user9411572/videos
Thursday, December 22, 2011
Tuesday, October 18, 2011
My experience with Twin Dees Cave
My experience with Twin Dees Cave
Browse around the internet for a while and read cave diving articles, eventually you will hit some articles and pictures concerning the incredible dives done at Weeki over that last few years.
What many people do not know is that on the back side of the same property is another cave, Twin Dees, a possible back door into Weeki. This cave is legendary in its own right and has been regarded by some to be the “Best Cave Dive in Florida.” Unfortunately years of drought and over pumping of the aquifer has rendered the once powerful spring into a mud puddle for most of the year.
Since I have been diving with Brett and the other KUR guys, I been hearing about this cave, and the biggest super room in Florida. I got a message a few weeks ago, “Are you sitting down?” asked Brett, “Twin Dees is flowing!”
I don’t show my excitement well, but I was overjoyed with the possibility of diving the cave. The cave was barely flowing. That day Curt and a team entered the cave in an attempt to shoot some video. Conditions were poor and the percolation was too bad. That next day I got my excuse to enter the cave. The first 200’ of cave can be problematic; it is restrictive and has a z-bend. This is no big deal with simple side mount equipment, but add a few stages, doubles/ rebreather, and scooters and it could be a death trap. Brett and I entered the cave with several hundred feet of #40 line and a handful of silt screws. We relined the entrance to make it easier and safer to follow and also protect the cave a little better.
The next dive in the system was with Jeff Petersen, we swam out to the beach to check line conditions and to see if the cave could support exploration at this time. I was actually able to see the cave this time. The first 900’ of cave is relatively restrictive; from the narrow solution tube entrance, to wide bedding planes and the intersection of vertical fissures. Eventually you hit a small breakdown room and the cave turns hard to the left. Here the walls turn from a tan to black and widen out. The blackness draws you in. There is a minor restriction, with an incredible goethite stump on the floor, “The Dragons Tongue” as Jeff calls it.
Past this the cave gets wider, the floor falls and the ceiling rises; Welcome to the Beach. Crayfish are everywhere and our bubbles disturb amphipods from their ceiling roost. The visibility improved slightly and we turned the dive.
Exiting the system is essentially a lights out drill. Years of organic material has built up on the floor, ceiling, and walls. If you look at the silt funny visibility goes to zero. Bubbles and the pressure wave from our movement killed the vis. It was a fun dive!
The next dive we pushed further into the cave. Jeff and I returned again, this time with a stage. After all of the talk of Middle Earth, I was finally going to see it for myself. We passed the Beach, it was just as cool this time as it was last time. We followed the line to the right and dropped straight down the pit. The walls here are dark and the passage is huge. We hit “Grand Central” and went left. We did a slight adjustment to the line and continued on. Soon we were at the Balcony. The ceiling was ~200’ and the floor was a hundred feet away. I peered off the balcony shining a 21w HID into the blackness. It was nothing but Black and Blue for as far as I could see. We dropped down and peered into the cavern zone of the River Alph Tunnel. Visibility improved, it was inviting. Maybe it was a narcosis buzz, or maybe it was the sheer size of the cave, but I did not want to go. Deco cranks up and air goes fast at those depths, so we could not stay long. The trip out was fine, and deco in the solution tube was… cozy.
I would love to get back and cruise around Middle Earth on a scooter. It is a 1000’ circuit to loop the room.
Now that I was familiar with the system I was invited to participate in the Exploration. I do not have a rebreather, or the experience of the other guys, but I assisted the best I could. I did a series of dives to place deco bottles at the beach, the sand chute, the end of the 50’ area, and the Staging room.
Brett Hemphill and Andy Pitkin did the push dive. They entered the water with their rebreathers, bailout bottles, scooters, the radio locator, and a load of knotted line. Their goal was to push the Alph tunnel at a depth of 300’+ and *maybe* connect it to Weeki. Their dive went smooth; they placed a radio locator transmitter at the old EOL in Twin Dees. They then added over 700’ of new line and surveyed it. Mike Poucher was standing ready on the surface, as soon as the radio locator was turned on he began to hone in on it. He had to tromp through some thick underbrush and ankle deep water, but he quickly found the spot.
For the next 10 hours or so, Mike and I hung out on the surface waiting for Brett and Andy to return. After 5 hours be finally saw bubbles, they had made it back to their 40’ stop. It would be another 5 hours to get them from 40’ to the surface. Mike and I lugged extra tanks and scooters out of the cave, and made sure the guys were safe. It turned out to be a 12 hour dive and was safe and productive.
After Andy crunched all of the survey data it appears that The Dead Marshes Tunnel in Weeki was heading straight toward Middle Earth. Jeff and Andy did a dive and found a tunnel leaving Middle Earth and heading straight at Weeki. A connection was imminent.
Jeff and I had the privilege to push this tunnel. Unfortunately gear issues slowed us down and by the time we reached the end of their line we were close to turning. We spooled out another 70’ of line, and saw breakdown and turned. We tied in the two lines, Far Earth to Moria, and I got to see virgin Twin Dee’s! It was a great dive.
They are planning yet another big dive in the next few weeks; it will be interesting to see what they find!
Tuesday, October 4, 2011
Advanced Diver Magazine
I have been doing a fair amount of diving this year, and I have had the privilege to assist with the discovery and exploration of several caves in Florida.
I am honored and excited to become a part of the Advanced Diver Magazine Exploration Team!
Check out this excellent video of Buzz Spring:
http://www.advanceddivermagazine.com/video/buzzspring.html
And my Bio:
http://www.admexplorationteam.com/team/bio/mattv.html
I am honored and excited to become a part of the Advanced Diver Magazine Exploration Team!
Check out this excellent video of Buzz Spring:
http://www.advanceddivermagazine.com/video/buzzspring.html
And my Bio:
http://www.admexplorationteam.com/team/bio/mattv.html
Monday, August 22, 2011
I am way behind on updating this blog. Work has been slammed, and I am tired and do not feel like writing when I get home. The summer rush is coming to an end as school starts again. So I will try to update this more often.
So what’s been going on?
Two weekends in a row I drove up to N. Florida to Dive with Brett Hemphill and Mike Poucher.
The first trip up we did some ridge walking. Based off of Satellite imagery and their knowledge of the area, we found new cave! We spent some time driving around back roads, dirt roads and a few u-turns, but it worked out in the end. Good land owner relations were made.
The state of the Floridan Aquifer is rather sad, we are in a drought, all major rivers are at record lows and many springs have stopped flowing. The new stuff we found were incredible karst features, there were 15’ cliffs down to water, offset sinks, giant fractures geology; all full of dark water. According the local woman we talked to these features used to flow beautiful blue water.
Maybe after the rainy season the aquifer will be recharged and the water will clear up, reaveiling beautiful new cave.
The next stop is a siphoning fissure crack located along the river, and a sinkhole just a few hundred feet away. The local woman called this Yetti Sink. As I said, the rivers are low, this also means the visibility in the river is good as well. We pulled off the “road” and Brett put on his armadillo; Mike and I ferried two aluminum 80’s down to the water. Brett geared up and descended into the “Big Brown Suck Hole.” Mike and I chatted with the locals for a while. Then we hear noise back in the woods, it was Brett. He had connected the two sinks and was climbing out of the steep sided sink by way of an old fallen oak.
The next stop was a well know but infrequently dove cave, we did a fun dive checking it out. There was no complete survey of it, so we made this a goal for the next trip. I had the privilege to dive with Mike Poucher on this dive. I have dove the cave before and this dive answered several questions I had.
The next weekend we made a return trip to N. FL. Sara and I drove up on Friday night in the rain and got a cheap hotel room for the weekend. The next morning we rose early and met with Brett and Mike and headed back out to the cave. Here we met with Andy Pitkin, Jerry Murphy, and Ted McCoy. Andy and Ted both had siddmount rebreathers, so they were going to the EOL to survey out, Brett and Mike were investigating leads and Jerry and I were surveying the first 1k’ of cave.
We enjoyed the usual conversation with the locals and Brett taught them about cave diving as if they were little kids. Jerry and I entered the sytem first, he was pulling tape and setting stations and I was recording data. Not too long into the dive, Andy and Ted passed us. It was slow going, the cave is small and twitsy. We reached our turn pressure about the same time we reached our destination. Once the whole team was back on the surface we discussed the dive. Andy and Ted reached the EOL, and turned the dive, while Brett and Mike’s leads did not pan out as we hoped. Jerry and I got about 700’ of survey, I plan to return to finish this.
It was a lot of fun diving with these guys. We went to a local backwoods restaurant, It wasn’t very good. We said goodbye to Jerry and Ted and the rest of us headed back to the woods.
We did some site analysis and I got to see some new caves to dive in the future.
Sara and I spent the night in N.Fl enjoying a good BBQ dinner and the comfort of a cold hotel room with cable.
The next day Sara and I hit the river on the kayaks. It was a nice day, and the river was gorgeous. We headed downstream and I dove a small sidemount cave, and check out a larger river cave. I need to return to both with bigger tanks.
The next weekend we hung arounf the house and made a short day trip down to Lithia Springs. I cannot stay dry too long. Lithia springs is only 40 minutes from Lakeland and flows into the Alafia River. We checked out the campground, which is very nice! We plan to spend the night here in the fall. It is close enough to home that I could camp and go to work the next day.
The cave here has been grated to keep people from killing themselves, thank you local government. It is a great swimming hole that gets insanely busy on summer weekends.
Homosassa Blue Hole Expedition
For the last few years I have heard from one of our customers at the dive shop about all of the caves in Homosassa, but he would not tell me where they were because he did not want me to die in them.
Brett has connections and he knows where many of these caves are. There are a series of Blue Holes located in the Gulf of Mexico, Simular to the Blue Holes in the Bahamas.
On our first trip out we did some recon diving. We checked out one cave and looked for many more.
The cave we dove was very cool. We motored around the clear, shallow, warm water looking for the obscure entrance. There in about 5’ of water was a fissure crack ~2’wide and 10’ long.
Brett was the first in the water, I hung out on the surface with his son. Eventually the bubbles disappeared, he must have found cave.
20 minutes later Brett returns, and tells me about the dive. I have to see it for myself. I gear up with my transpac and lp45’s. The gulf water is hot and I descend down the crack. 30 feet down I see a crab trap perched on top of a organic debris pile. There are lines run all over, monofilament and glowsticks, 1” Poly twist and some cave line. I follow and old line across the room, it was much bigger than I thought. There was a thin whispy hydrogen sulfide layer, as I dropped to 80’ the water cooled and visibility improved. I hit a breakdown pile, here the lines ended, and the cave continued, just as Brett described. I tied off my line and ducked down to 130’ visibility was incredbible, the walls were a light grey and reflected my light. The cave was beautiful. After 150’ I tied off my line for a return trip.
I made a big circle back up. The room was huge, it was like a combination of Hospital Hole and Paradise Springs.
We looked for more caves but the weather began to turn.
We returned again the next weekend with a guide.
The first stop was Buzz Hole. I was lucky enough to be the designated diver here. This cave entrance was huge and it was siphoning. We were told divers have been here before, but only the first 50’. I got the to the first room, and there was a low gravel bedding plane, I followed the flow through the hole. Then I popped into a large room and the cave took off, I followed the right wall. Not too far later I hit a Hydrogen Sufide layer at a depth of 65’. Below the layer there were dead stone crabs and black walls. I swam thorough the fog into a large deadend room, I thought, “this cant be it” I swam back into the sulfide. There was a lead I missed in the fog. I traveled another 150’ into the cave and it ended. The room was large, white and crystal clear. I checked for leads, nothing. I turned the dive and headed out, counting knots. I was pumped. I laid ~450’ of line in a virgin sea cave! I got back to the surface and reported my find and we moved on to explore more holes.
Brett dove the next cave, N-hole. He had to chase a hawksbill turtle out, this cave began in a hydrogen sufide bedding plane and ended in a series of big rooms.
We then drove around for a while looking for a small hole, we did not find it.
Then Colt Smith geared up to dive a narrow siphoning crack. He descended and returned shortly, reporting that it was too small for AL80’s. I had Lp45’s with me so I decended. I made it through his first restriction, then a thighter chest to back restriction, and I stopped at a restriction that required some digging. The cave was taking a lot of water, and I could see nothing but black ahead. We need to return with more gas.
We made two more stops this day. The first stop was a series of fissures and small caverns, but no linear passage.
The last stop was “small hole” this manhole size hole in the sea floor did not look like much. We power snorkeled it first and “hey!” there was cave. I suited up and dropped in, the cave was siphoning water down to 30’ through a 8” high nasty bedding plane. I turned and behind me there was poor visablitly, but I could not see a wall, so I swam. The water was grey, I was in a hydrogen sulfide layer. Eventually the water became clear, and cold. The walls were Black! My light was swallowed up in this room, I dropped down to the floor and had no reference point and limited gas so I headed back up. Brett went in next. He pushed the cave another 200’ through BLACK tunnel to a white room. It was a cool little cave.
We had a productive day and headed home. There are still many more holes we want to explore out there.
The next Sunday 8/14, Sara and I had the bright idea to go out to the Chazz to dive. Terrible idea! We drove an hour and a half to get there, thirty minutes down a dirt road, hiked a half mile through mosquito infested waist deep mud, and the visibility was zero. Oh well, it was good exercise. We then headed over to Eagles Nest and swam in the basin and relaxed for a few hours.
Finally, this past Wednesday, I met with Brett Hemphill and Andy Pitkin to do some land recon and diving.
This time I came prepared. I had bug spray with the highest deet content I could find, long pants, mud boots, long sleeve shirt, a machete, compass, a GPS, water, and a good attitude J
We hiked around the swamp for a few hours investigating Karst features. There is some cool stuff out in the woods. Once the rainy season is over we will (hopefully) have some awesome caves to dive.
As we wondered past the point where SWFWMD turned around we found a shallow slough, slowly flowing with clear water. We folled this mazy stream through the swamp, as the run became deeper and the water clearer, I became excited, woo hoo, new cave. But no, we found a spring. The spring was probably once magnificent, surrounded by towering cypress trees, lined with white limestone and pumping clear blue water. But man has no been kind to the swamp. Cypress trees were harvested and have been replaced by faster growing oaks, the aquifer has been pumped excessively for irrigation and drinking water, and the recharge area has been paved over with condows. This spring has been reduced to a tiny trickle and is slowly filling in with fine sediment. Hopefully this will not be the future of all spring s in Florida.
The dives in the swamp did not work out this time, to we headed back out to the Gulf.
We returned to the crack from our first trip to shoot some video. Too bad Andy Pitkin brought his low visibility curse and the Hydrogen sulfide was 100’ thick this time.
We still got some neat footage and I had a fun dive. Since that didn’t pan out we decide to retun to BUZZ spring to look for a potential upstream lead. We arrived and Brett jumped in with a mask. It was springing fresh water this time! We quickly geared up, and Andy took the lead. I couldn’t believe how much flow there was this time. We got through the gravel bedding plane and this time I followed the left wall, there was a tunnel, it looked just like my downstream tunnel, but where was the line. I turned around and Andy had seen the same thing and was already deploying a reel. Immediately there was a big room, and it went. I was yelling through my reg! On the far side of the room there was going passage 4’ high and 6’ wide, there was flow and a gravel floor (a good sign). Andy put in ~350’ of line upstream and it was still going. He surveyed on the way out while I looked at side leads. I was pumped; it reminded me of Thunder Road at Crystal Beach. This is going to be something big! This is probably one of the most memorable dives I have had. I smiled all the way home, and even dreamed about the cave. The cave is weird, it springs, siphones, has a hydrogen sulfide layer, and upstream and a “downstream” section, there are stone crabs running all over, soft corals and sponges growing on the walls. Very cool cave!
Brett, Andy, and Curt returned the next day and spooled about another 1000’ of line in “huge” passage. I can’t wait to see it!
Tuesday, July 12, 2011
Independence Day Weekend
This year for the 4th of July we did something a little different, instead of spending money on fireworks and staying in town;. I thought it would be nice to get out and enjoy the “Land of the Free”. To me this means getting away from the I-4 corridor and heading north to enjoy the backwoods of Layfayette Co.
Sara and I rented a small cabin on the Suwannee with friends; Ryan and Jess. This was their first trip to this part of Florida, quite different from Pinellas Co.
We pulled out of Lakeland around 7pm Friday night in the pouring rain and made our way up the center of the state. After nearly 4 hours of riding and playing driving games, we turned on to a narrow dirt road leading to the cabin. The cabin was not what we expected, it had a nice deck, but it was more of the “mother in law sweet” for a nice old man named Jim. We met Jim and he told us of all of the good places to hang out in Mayo….
The next morning we woke up relatively early, cooked a hearty breakfast, lowered the canoes down the step banks of the Suwannee, and hit the river. First, we headed downstream about a mile to Lafayette Blue Springs.
This was my first time diving here. We walked up to the ranger station to get some information and ran into some old friends from Gainesville. I geared up and was the attraction for the local children as I walked down the river in my drysuit and transpac. I geared up in the spring basin while answering the common questions; “What’s in there?” “How deep is it?” ect. It is fun to talk to the kids about diving.
I dropped down and headed toward the headspring. I ran my own line looking for the permanent line. The cavern was surprisingly big, the water was clear, probably 50 feet of visibility with an emerald green tint. I swam a few hundred and came to another sink, this was snake sink. I swam on the surface a few hundred more feet and dropped back down. I was looking for the way on when I saw another faint glow in front of me. The water was dark brown so this was obviously the wrong way, I turned and something hit me. It knocked me sideways; a rock or a log…. There is not much life in a cave that can physically knock you around, so assumed something fell. ..Then I saw movement and turned looking back toward snake sink. I had just been punched by a beaver! A large beaver had just swatted me in the kidney with his tail. I watch him swim towards the light. It was awesome and I wished I had brought my camera. The rest of the dive was uneventful. The cave was huge! There were skylights every where, the floor was covered in thick brown silt littered with beaver logs and crayfish.
I turned on time at 45 minutes, at 2000 feet. It was a great dive and I cannot wait to return. If you have not been here you should check it out. I do not believe that they allow open water diving.
We returned to the cabin and we all tried loading into Jim’s loaner, leaky canoe; Terrible idea. The girls stayed behind and Ryan and I motored upstream with the trolling motor clamped on the side. Our first stop was Thomas spring, I had seen it on the Florida Spring Database, and wondered if there was a cave. Florida is in a major drought and most of the major rivers are at their record lows. Because of this the aquifer is low and Thomas Spring was dried up.
We continued upstream, exploring river I have never seen. We passed a small gator sunning himself on exposed limestone. Shortly we arrived at a small spring run on the left. I had hope to take the canoe up the run. The river is low and there was a small waterfall, not canoe territory.
This was Allen Mill Pond. I first heard of this spring several years ago with the passing of Ron Simmons in the small cave. I never had the pleasure to meet Ron, but we had similar caving interests. He laid most of the line in the Roppel Cave sump I have dived. He was a side-mounter and a digger. He pushed caves that others wouldn’t. He more than doubled the known passage at Allen Mill Pond. I have respect for Ron and visiting this place had a special meaning for me.
The spring run was beautiful, and the foundation of the old mill is still in place. Ryan and I hiked around and found a beaver dam. We turned and headed home to spend the evening with the ladies and cook dinner.
The next morning I wanted to take Sara back to Allen Mill Pond. Ryan and Jess chose to stay home and relax. Sara and I drove down winding back roads until we located the entrance to Allen Mill Pond. We parked in a gravel area; there was no one else around. First, we check out the mill remains, then we headed upstream. Supposedly there is a trail here... We just hiked the river and shoreline, dive booties are great!
After ten minutes on the trail I knew we were nearing the dam, suddenly there was a splash. Sara got to see her first beaver swimming across the spring run. Just upstream from the dam was the beaver castle. Very cool to see, it is amazing how much one animal can change the topography of the land.
We continued upstream tromping through the run, watching birds, fish, and pigs. After ¾ mile and 3 more dams, we made it to the head spring pool. It was beautiful, I wish I had tanks. I did some free diving and we relaxed for a few minutes before heading back out. Sara and I explored the area for a while before heading back.
We got back to the cabin and after patching the crack in the boat with duct tape, the four of us loaded into a gheenoe. We headed upstream. Our first stop was Charles Spring; the spring run was dried up. The cave looked awesome though; there were land bridges and crystal clear water. I will be back to dive. We talked with the local and hit the rope swing. This was possibly the best rope swing I have ever been on! It was fun swimming in the river before heading back to the cabin.
Dinner was at Suwannee River Rendezvous, we played games and hiked around. The next morning we packed and hit the road. On the way back to Lakeland I was able to squeeze in one more dive at Little River. There is no flow right now; I could hover in the entrance. I had never been up the Harper tunnel, so that was my plan. It was a beautiful little tunnel; there were pristine clay banks and huge silt dunes. At the end the line continues through a no-mount restriction, I poked in here and then turned once through the restriction. I’ll save that for the next time when there is flow again.
It was a great weekend! Thanks to Sara, Ryan and Jess for a Great time.
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